Iglesia del Calvario
photo by Mark Larson


León is named after León, Spain. After independence, the elites of León and Granada struggled over which city would be the capital. León was dominated by the liberals and Granada by the conservatives. The fighting ended when Managua became the capital.

After Granada, which is better preserved, León has the best colonial architecture in Nicaragua. It is a university town that stubbornly remains somewhat pro-Sandinista. During the 1979 revolution, the Sandinistas took over León in violent street by street fighting. Somoza then had the city bombed, an unforgivable move considering he was bombing his own people. The National Guard took León back over, again in street by street fighting, but this time less intense since the Sandinistas melted away. Finally, the Sandinistas took León back over and held it until the Somoa government fell. You can still see bullet marks on some buildings. Also, there is a shell of a church on the road out of town that was destroyed during the bombing. Across the street from this church is the Museo de las Tradiciones (Museum of the Traditions), which prominently displays a statute of a Sandinista guerrilla holding a handmade bomb. Some sarcastically call it the Museo de las Traiciones (Museum of the Treasons) as a reference to how the Sandinista rank and file has been cheated by Daniel Ortega and the rest of the Sandinista elite.

León used to be the hub of cotton growing but that has declined. The economy is relatively depressed. Tourists are not a large, visible presence in León, though it is popular amongst more seasoned travellers. León still is a university town, filled with students. Backpackers, volunteers and other extranjeros usually meld with local students.

León has more colonial churches and cathedrals per capita than any other place in Nicaragua. If you are still on the church tour, there are thirteen to check out in town.

Getting there

By plane

Nearest commercial airport is in Managua. Managua is roughly an hour and a half drive from León.

By car

Just about anyone in Managua can tell you how. The Carretera Vieja to León (old road to León) is in the best shape it has been, ever. It is well paved and signed. (The Carretera Nueva is in bad shape I hear). It's about 90 kilometers from Managua to León, about a 90 minute trip depending on how fast you drive. Stop for quesillo and tiste in Nagarote or La Paz Centro, the two towns the Carretera Vieja goes through on the way. You will find the turnoff to the Carretera Nueva a León at KM 6 1/2 on the Carretera Sur.

If you are coming from the north (Esteli) on the carretera norte, take the turn north of Matagalpa, at San Isidro I think, and save yourself the trouble of going through Managua.

By bus

The bus terminal is about 2 km northeast of the center, take one of the trucks waiting in front of the terminal - which serve as local buses (3 cord) - to the center, or take a taxi for about C$10.

  • From Managua : Take the vans leaving from Mercado Israel Lewites or the microbuses (camionetas) leaving from UCA (Universidad Centro Americana). The vans from Mercado Israel Lewites are fiteen-passenger vans that are fairly crowded, but not excessively uncomfortable, particularly when one sits next to a window. Buses run regularly, leaving from the Mercado every 15-20 minutes. The bus should cost C$ 25. If you take the bus, make sure to get an expreso - otherwise the bus makes stops to pick up passengers on the side of the road along the way.

  • From Esteli : There's one direct bus daily. If you miss it, you've got to change in San Isidro on the Panamerican Hwy.

  • From Matagalpa : There are 2 direct busses running daily, otherwise take a bus to San Isidro and transfer to Leon.

Direct transportation is also available directly from the Managua airport via private van service.

Traveling around

The city is very walkable if you can stand the heat. You do not really need a car once there, unlike Managua. The locals get around by bicycle and walking, and if you need to get across town you can take a taxi. However, to go to the places outside the city, such as the beach, a car is convenient.

Ruletos (trucks) serve as local buses (C$ 3 per ride). Taxis are C$ 10 per person anywhere in the city.


  • Cathedral of León - this is the biggest cathedral in Central America. The story goes that the construction plans sent back to Spain for approval showed smaller dimensions, because they were afraid the Church wouldn't approve such a large cathedral, although this story has been debunked. The cathedral is also the final resting place of Ruben Dario, as well as many other notable Nicaraguans. You can pay a small fee to climb the stairs up to the roof, where you can get a nice view of all of León's churches and the surrounding volcanoes, and you can go into the cellars beneath the cathedral. On the roof you can see close up the giant sculptures holding up the cathedral bells, just don't ring them.

  • Iglesia de San Juan Bautista de Subtiava - one of the oldest colonial churches in Leon, the church has served a traditionally indigenous community. The rustic wood interior is a pleasant deviance from the often ornate styles that are more typical of the period.

  • Fundacion Ortiz - is an artistic treasure trove. It has een colection of European masters and a stunning colection of Latin American art.

There are murals all over the city. One of the more unsettling commemorates a massacre of protesting local students by the militia.

Things to do

  • Quetzaltrekkers Nicaragua offers non-profit volcano Treks. They are located just around the corner from ViaVia and Big Foot. Big Foot Hostel offer excellent value Volcano Boarding trips with an English speaking guide. Rumor has it that they will be commencing climbing Nicaraguas Tallest volcano, San Christobal.

  • Poneloya and Penitas beaches. Be careful once there though, not of the people, who are just as friendly as in León, but of the surf. The waves are large and quite fun, but watch out for the currents. The surf claims a victim or two every year, including the young and fit. There are accommodations from hotel Lacayo, old and historic, all wood structure, to Hotel Poneloya, recently refurbished rooms w/ a/c across the street. They have upgraded the beds, famous for uncomfortable before. Still, the rooms have no real windows. Rooms were $25 dollars a night (they built some new rooms which I did not look at. There are better hotels in Penitas. Try the Hotel Suyapa Beach (885-8345). Rooms are a bit more expensive but well worth it if you have the money (still less than $60). They have a pool and a popular beachside restaurant. Besides hanging out at the beach, there's a billiard hall popular with locals at the end of the paved road in Poneloya (though at night it gets a little rowdy as locals get drunk on Lijon - cheap sugar cane liquor), rustic restaurants past the billiard hall, and lots of Flor de Caña rum. There is also a Catholic Church in Poneloya in case you need to make atonement for what Flor made you do. Buses depart from the road to Poneloya on the outskirts of town (by Subtiava), they are quite affordable. Splurging on a taxi is also an option (C$150 to $250 depending). The beaches are less than 20 kilometers away.

  • Catch a baseball game if you are there during the season. The Leónes won the championship in 2004 and are perpetual contenders. For fifty cordobas you can sit right behind home plate, or pay less for 3rd base side where the lively crowd sits with the unofficial band. Order some vigoron, get a Victoria and enjoy. If Chinandega is visiting, it can get quite rowdy and tickets sell out. The stadium is in the northern part of the city.

  • Museo Ruben Dario. Pick up some of his poetry (Azul is a good beginning). There is an art museum that has a good collection, including contemporary art. It occupies two houses. The main part on a southeast corner of the street that runs from Parque Ruben Dario to the Cathedral (Avenida Central).

  • El Fortin For the best view over the city and the volcanoes, go to this old Somoza stronghold southwest of León, best reached from Subtiava. It's a 20 minute walk, ask locals for directions.

  • Nicasitours (Nicasi Tours) , 414 1192, Nicaragua-Así Tours takes you to places you wouldn’t think of visiting, which merely travelling, you miss. The activities give an insight in how people really live in León, you spend a day in the life of a Nicaraguan. No secrets, no exaggerations, no covering up the truth. If you are really curious about real life, ask for one of the tours and you will not be disappointed. Nicasí Tours introduces you to local people and local families we met during our search for the real Nicaragua. We give you a different view of Nicaragua.



Great food at the local market, behind the main cathedral. Large food court with all sorts of great beans and eggs and rice and fried cheese and cheese-stuffed platanos and thick tortillas. Great for breakfast, you can fill up for a dollar or two. You can also buy fresh-made juices, and gaze in awe at the giant blocks of fried cheese.

On the street behind the market is Buen Gusto, where you should grab some Pollo Vino on the cheap. A few blocks south of the Parque de los Poetas is Buena Cuchara, where the food is delicious-- 25 cordobas for a full lunch, including either fish or chicken (both delicious).

On the boulevard out of town toward Chinandega, across from the main police station, there's a green house with a porch. This 'Pelo de chancho', where you get the best Mondongo soup in León, but you have to get there early for lunch or they might run out.

Located two houses from the Nord West corner of the Central Park in front of the big Enitel building is Café La Rosita that offers an excellent environment (beautifully restored colonial house with large central patio), premium Nicaraguan coffees, a short but complete menu of panini sandwiches, salads, desserts, and even ice-cold beers.And free wireless internet access.


  • Cocin Arte, A great vegetarian restaurant. Most vegetarians would not mind setting up camp at this restaurant during their stay in Leon while there are also a couple dishes offered for carnivores. Take about 4 dollar for a meal and a drink. The service tends to be slow but the food is well-worth the wait. They also sell organic chocolates and coffee.

  • Los Pescaditos, In Subtiava, Worth the cab ride (less than 10 minutes from Cathedral). You should check out the Subtiava Church on the way back to walk off your meal.


Montezerino is on the bypass near the Managua intersection. They serve a good fillet mignon or churrasco for under $10 US. The restaurant serves as a night club at night. It is open on the sides and large.


Payitas, El Sesteo during the day.

Don Senor's has a restaurant downstairs to eat, drink and watch tv. Upstairs is a club that charges a 30 cordoba cover.

Dilectus is fancier and larger then the other discos. Its on the edge of town and requires a taxi to get there and back. The cover is about c$50.

Salon Estrella is about 20 cordobas to get in, has slot machines in front, a small dance floor in the back, loud music and usually gets pretty full.

La Calabiza at night.

ViaVia has live music every Friday (follow the crowed when it closes at 11PM - it's still a hostel, with tired travellers...).

El Divino Castigo (3 blocks north of parque central) got live music every Tuesday. La Esquina del Movimiento (one block east of the above) got Spanish alternative movies almost every Thursday, and often live music on Saturdays.

Cappuccino, espresso, granita etc.: Café La Rosita offers an excellent environment (beautifully restored colonial house with large central patio), premium Nicaraguan coffees, a short but complete menu (sandwiches, salads, desserts, and even ice-cold beers), wireless internet access, and best of all, prices that are in step with the Nicaraguan economy-- low. Here you'll find locals and foreigners alike all relaxing in the heart of downtown León. Located on Calle Real in front of Enitel, diagonal from the NW corner of Central Park.



  • ViaVia, Northeast of the cathedral, Has a popular restaurant/cafe. In the back there is a brand new hotel with 2 dorm-rooms and 6 private rooms.

  • Big Foot Hostel , In front of ViaVia hostel, New Swimming pool, new kitchen and DVD system, 5 separate dorms & 8 private rooms. Volcano Boarding Trips are offered here as well.

  • Casa Vieja is rumored to be the cheapest accommodation in town 65C in dorm, populated by street vendors and down-to-the-ground travelers.

  • Lazy Bones , Two and a half blocks north of Parque Ruben Dario, Opened in December 2006 and the newest hostel in León. Super clean with real beds and pillows. Included in the price are : internet access, coffee and tea, pool table, DVD library and a swimming pool. Check out the Mural.

  • Sonati , 505-2311-4251, From NE corner of Cathedral, 3 blocks Northward and ½ block eastward, New hostel, opened in 2009, in the center of Leon where you can experience the sound of nature, relaxing in one of the hammocks in the garden. Friendly, tranquil and clean hostel, a perfect place to enjoy the old colonial city of Leon and meet like minded travelers. Big kitchen, new mattresses, free Internet, free coffee and a big garden, etc.<\br> SONATI is an organization with a social and environmental vision which carries out both profit and non-profit activities. Promoting long-term self-sustainable environmental-educative activities is the most important mission. Thehostel is the financial base to achieve this goal.


  • Hotel San Juan is a nice hotel in front of iglesia San Juan, offering a good bed and breakfast, as well as kitchen access for about 10 dollar a night.


Los Balcones, located on the corner down the street from the Supermercado Colonia. A high level hotel (at least by Nicaraguan standards). It has A/C, real mattresses, nice views, hot water, and great service. Room: $US50 per night. Friendly English speaking staff.


Queso quemado (hard, salty, white cheese that goes great with tortillas or bean soup).


León is - by Central American standards - a very safe and comfortable town. In the city center, it is safe to walk home even at 3 AM. There are, however, some things to keep in mind:

  • The farther you travel from the city center, the poorer the neighborhoods become. Once you leave the city, however, you will come upon small campesino villages. The majority of these villagers are friendly.

  • Groups of beggars, mostly children, congregate around popular tourist spots. Some may follow you around and some may even become verbally hostile. This behavior is usually a scare tactic.


Spanish at one of the schools.

You also can get excellent classes with private teachers, which actually is much cheaper.

  • Spanish classes with Ileana:


There are free-of-charge volunteer opportunities with Quetzaltrekkers an organisation raising money for street kids by offering hikes to volcanoes around León. You can volunteer as a hiking guide for a minimum of three months.

Las Tias - the supported organization - also takes volunteers, taking care of the streetkids, with a two months minimum.

Ask around at the cafe run by "Edad de Oro", whether this organisation got some (volunteer) work for you - they're pretty cool too.

some people find work at the big foot hostel, and for long time (6 month or so) stayers it's sometimes possible to teach english.

Get out

  • Pacific beaches - Within 10-15 minutes by taxi are some of Nicaragua's lightly trod beaches. Las Peñitas is convenient but known for its surfing and mellow vibe.

Definitely make time to surf Cerro Negro. If time, support quetzal trekkers, but be prepared to leave at 4:30 am and return at 3:pm, as they use public transport as often as possible. Tierra Tours, located 1.5 blocks n of La Merced is a great alternative (US$28). Fun guides and ac transport! Also, a must do is Hervidores San Jacinto. Catch a bus at the terminal or take a taxi, round trip for C$300. Entrance is C$20 and you'll be hooked up with one of the local kids/guides. They are really nice and a must. Be careful to pay attention where they walk, as you will be walking just above thermal activity. As I read somewhere, "It's like a mini Yellowstone, without the fences."

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The photos displayed on this page are the property of one of the following authors:

Mark Larson, Javier Losa, Luis Sáenz H., eric molina, Moody 75, amanderson2, jamesjbulley

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