Abu Dhabi
is the federal capital and center of government in the United Arab Emirates . It is the largest city of the Emirate of Abu Dhabi and one of the most modern cities in the world.
With a population of just under 1.5 million, Abu Dhabi is the headquarter of numerous oil companies and embassies. With only 420,000 citizens in the entire emirate, each has a theoretical net worth of $17 million, and Abu Dhabi has been described by CNN as the richest city in the world. The city features large gardens and parks, green boulevards lining all the streets and roads, sophisticated high-rise buildings, international luxury hotel chains and opulent shopping malls.
Long viewed as a staid bureaucratic outpost entirely lacking in neighboring Dubai's pizazz, things started to change radically in 2004 after long-ruler Sheikh Zayed passed away and his son Sheikh Khalifa took over. In a bid to attract tourism and investment, land sales to foreigners were allowed, restrictions on alcohol were loosened and several massive projects are under way, such as the upcoming $28 billion cultural zone of Saadiyat Island and its centerpieces the Guggenheim and Louvre Museums scheduled to open in 2011. It remains to be seen how well the strategy will work, but the city is certainly experiencing a construction boom.
The core of Abu Dhabi is a wedge-shaped island connected to the mainland by the Maqta and Musaffah bridges. The wide end of the wedge forms the city center, with the Corniche running along the coast and a road variously known as Airport Rd or Sheikh Rasheed bin Saeed al Maktoum St running lengthwise out to the bridges.
Street addresses in Abu Dhabi are simultaneously very logical and hopelessly confusing. Many roads have traditional names, like "Airport Rd", which may not correspond to the official names, like "Maktoum St", and the city is divided into traditional districts like "Khalidiyya". However, by recent decree, the city has been split up into numbered "zones" and "sectors", with all roads in each sector numbered, First St, Second St, etc, and the vast majority of street signs only refer to these. The system of main streets is straight forward enough once you realize that the odd numbered streets run across the island and the even numbers run along it. So First St is in fact the Corniche, and the odd numbers continue out of town to 31st St which is near the new Khalifa Park. Airport Rd is Second St and the even numbers continue to the east through to 10th St by Abu Dhabi Mall. On the west side of Airport Rd, the numbers go from 22nd Street to 32nd St by the new Bateem Marina. Alas, confusion is caused by the local streets, which are on green signs (main streets are on blue signs) and are also called First, Second etc. Most locals opt to ignore the system entirely, and the best way to give instructions is thus navigating by landmarks, if taking a taxi, odds are you will get to "behind the Hilton Baynunah" much faster than "Fifth Street, Sector 2".
Abu Dhabi International Airport
(IATA
: AUH, ICAO
: OMAA) is the UAE's second busiest airport (after Dubai) and the home base of Abu Dhabi's flag carrier Etihad
. Launched only in 2003, Etihad has been expanding furiously and now flies everywhere from the United States to Australia, and its services (particularly on long-haul flights) are remarkably good in all classes.
Despite its slightly dingy appearance and the spectacularly bizarre blue-lime tiled mushroom canopy that awaits you at the gates, the airport itself is quite well-maintained and has duty-free shopping. However, it can get a little overcrowded at peak hours around midnight. The airport is currently undergoing a major expansion which is proposed to be completed by 2010. Picking up luggage is also quite easy, although, be forewarned that airport personnel may remove a flight's bags from the carousel and stack them in a pile next to it, as the airport has few baggage carousels. Al Ghazal taxis travel to the city at a flat rate of Dhs.75 and take around 40 minutes. Public bus route 901 also heads to the city every 30-45 minutes and costs just Dhs. 3
A viable alternative is to fly to Dubai instead, and continue onward by bus or, if really in a hurry, by taxi. A metered Dubai airport taxi direct to the town center will cost about Dhs 300.
If you are flying on Etihad, complimentary shuttle buses are provided at regular intervals to the centre of Abu Dhabi and to Dubai. These depart from the main car park at the front of the airport, by the car hire offices.
You can get into Abu Dhabi from the other Emirates of Dubai Sharjah etc by bus. The Emirates Express between Abu Dhabi and Dubai is operated jointly by the Abu Dhabi and Dubai municipalities. The 150 km route takes around two hours; the first bus departs from the Abu Dhabi main bus terminal on the corner of Hazza bin Zayed the First (11th) St and East (4th) Rd at 6:30AM and the last leaves at 9:30PM; they leave at 45 minute intervals. From Dubai, the buses leave from 6:00AM, and run until 9:00PM, from the Al Ghubaibah station. The cost per person is Dh.20 one way.
The five-laned highway between Dubai and Abu Dhabi is the country's heaviest-traveled route, and the 170-km journey can be covered in two hours. While there is a national speed limit of 120 km/h, this is often wildly exceeded by young Emiratis and the highway sees over 20 accidents monthly. Stay out of the leftmost lane and drive carefully, especially at night.
Abu Dhabi is built for cars. As a result, there are a lot of them and lots of traffic jams in the down town area.
The best way to get around if you haven't rented a car is by taxi. Basic white-and-gold taxis with green signs on top are ubiquitous and crossing town won't cost more than Dhs. 10 ($3.7) or so. Basic metered fares start from Dhs. 2.50. Slightly more luxurious silver cabs, have white signs on top and charge a little more with a Dhs. 3 starting fare and Dh. 1 per km thereafter. They are probably the safer bet in the unruly traffic. Taxis like Al Ghazal and National monopolize the hotels, and charge roughly twice what the local Silver or White and Gold cabs charge.
A host of silver colored taxis have now entered the local taxi business. Though the cars used are of a higher standard, have better educated and trained drivers, they charge a little more. These cabs charge the metered fare plus Dhs.10 for a trip to the airport, which usually works out cheaper than the White and Gold cabs, bargained fares.
The local white and Gold cabs or silver cabs, are not allowed to pick up passengers from the airport as this service is reserved for the Al Ghazal limousine service, who charge around AED 75/- for a trip to the city.
The white and Gold taxis do not go to the airport by the meter, and will usually bargain for the fare from the city. The normal being between Dhs. 35-50, depending on your race and bargaining ability.
You are not expected to tip cab drivers, but gratuity will be extremely appreciated. Many taxi drivers are displaced persons, far from their home countries and families, so don't be surprised if they take out pictures of family members for you to comment on.
White and Gold taxi drivers are not patient enough at busy times for you to count your change in a leisurely way before you pay them. Most white and Gold cabs try and negotiate a fare that is usually higher than the Silver Cabs, and will decide where they would like to go, and whom they would like to drive. They also prefer working as car pools whereby they take 4-5 individual passengers to improve their revenues. This is because the fares for these cabs were frozen to 2000 levels.
The main Bus station in Abu Dhabi is on Hazaa Bin Zayed Road. You can get buses here going to the different points within the city as well as inter city buses. The bus stand also serves as a Taxi stand, for inter emirate taxis.
Abu Dhabi has recently invested considerable sums in improving its long skeletal bus network and the fleet is set to increase from 120 buses at the end of 2008 to 1360 by the end of 2010. The fare system is simple: Dhs. 1 for a single ride, Dhs. 3 for a day pass, or Dhs. 40 for a one-month Ojra pass. The dark bluish green buses are air-conditioned but not wheelchair accessible. Passengers can board and alight at the designated stops along the route. These locations can be identified by the temporary Department of Transport bus stop poles. Beware: bus stops which do not have the DoT bus stop sign may not be serviced as not all bus stops along the route are used.
The City Bus routes are:
The older bus service operated by The Abu Dhabi Municipality operates bus routes within city and to the other emirates. The routes within the city are very few. The buses are very modern and air-conditioned. The services are as punctual as possible and operates more or less around the clock and charge Dhs.1 for travel within the Capital. The front few seats are reserved for ladies, so men should avoid occupying them.
Unless they are very aggressive drivers or accustomed to reckless road behaviour, most visitors find the Emirati style of driving far too dangerous to be willing to get behind the wheel themselves. Those who do should be aware that any traffic accidents between locals and expats will ultimately mean that the expat is deemed at fault in most cases. Rented cars/visitors are not treated differently if they get into a car accident. However, it must be known that if you do get in a car accident that you should never move your car unless 1) you are asked by the police to do so over the phone, or 2) the police ask you to move it upon their arrival to the scene. It doesn't matter how you feel about your car blocking three lanes in the middle of the rush hour while waiting for the police. If you move your car, you will be in some serious trouble. Tests for alcohol can also be administered, and even the blood-alcohol level rise from a glass of wine will be sufficient grounds for one month's incarceration.
If you do decide to take the plunge, beware that the street numbering system is unusual and it can take 30-45 days to get used to it. U-Turns are allowed at almost every intersection. When the left lane signal turns green, you simply have to swing a U-turn and come back. One tip – whatever other flaws drivers here may have, they do not run red lights. There are cameras at many intersections, fines are high (about Dhs. 370-551 or US$100-150), and residents who are not citizens can be deported for running too many red lights. When the light turns yellow, that taxi in front of you will jam on the brakes, and you should, too. But when the light turns green, expect someone behind you to honk at you immediately to get you moving.
Unfortunately, despite excellent roads, and a traffic signal system, vehicle accidents remains the largest cause of deaths in the UAE.
Navigating Abu Dhabi on foot is difficult due to the spread-out nature of the city and the oppressive summertime heat and humidity. Pedestrian crossings across the massive boulevards are few and far between.
Abu Dhabi offers little in the way of historical or cultural sights.
Abu Dhabi has several large green spaces, many of which include play areas and equipment for children, and the city is studded with lovely fountains, swathes of neon light, and the occasional sculpture.
There are a vast number of projects coming up in Abu Dhabi. In addition to the cultural haven of Saadiyat Island (see Understand), the alpha-male motorsports den of Yas Island will feature a world-class motor sports racetrack which held the final Formula 1 race of the 2009 season and is on the race calendar for 2010 - the Ethiad Airways Abu Dhabi Grand Prix, a Ferrari theme park, water park, and — of course — enormous shopping malls. Last and least, the Lulu Islands are a group of artificial islands, already built just offshore at great expense, but currently sitting there doing absolutely nothing after a tourism venture failed to even start construction.
Abu Dhabi is host to a wide range of palates and ethnicities when it comes to cuisine. Lebanese/Arabic, or Indian food is usually the cheapest. Hotel restaurants are usually the most expensive. The city is home to all manner of fast food like McDonald's and Hardees, but there is little call for most people to eat at those places. Some foreign residents complained of a lack of good Chinese food, but several Chinese restaurants have opened in recent years and serve reasonable Chinese food.
The fun thing about Abu Dhabi is that everywhere, literally from tiny falafel shacks to the cushy hotel restaurants to Burger King, delivers to anywhere in the city. Delivery is quick and reliable, and usually doesn't cost extra.
Vegetarians will find the city's selection of meals very satisfying. Vegetable and bean-heavy native dishes, the array of splendid pure vegetarian Indian cuisine, and the ready availability of fresh salads make eating in Abu Dhabi a stress-free experience. Strict vegans may have a little difficulty communicating their precise demands, but most places offer vegan dishes and are always willing to accommodate a paying customer. The best choice for pure Vegans would be one of the many Indian veg restaurants.
Visitors should always check the Islamic calendar to determine whether they will be visiting during the month of Ramadan. Since Muslims fast during daylight hours, restaurants are, by law, closed during the day. It is also against the law to eat or drink anything, even water, in public and tourists (and non-Muslim residents) have been arrested and given fines. Large hotels generally have one restaurant open during the day to serve meals to non-Muslims. During the evening, however, it's quite a different story, as the festive atmosphere of iftar (breaking the fast) begins and residents gather for lavish, Thanksgiving-like meals. As long as you don't mind tiding yourself over in private, the evening meals are magnificent.
Some of the best and cheapest food in the city can be found at its many Indian restaurants. Portions are almost always generous, prices low, and quality excellent. Set meals of rice, fish curry, lentil curry (dhal), peppery soup (rasam), a vegetable side dish and perhaps a small fried fish, served on a large steel tray (thali) with little steel bowls for the accompaniments, can go for as low as Dhs.5.
Only restaurants located in hotels are allowed to serve alcohol. Therefore, all nightlife is associated with hotels. The drinking age is 21, but most places don't care. Unlike some other Middle Eastern nations, the bars in Abu Dhabi will be able to accommodate most drink orders.
Technically, you are supposed to purchase a permit to buy alcohol for private storage, although Spinney's and other liquor stores usually take proof that you aren't a local Muslim (a military ID or driver's license.)
Hotels in Abu Dhabi used to be half price compared to Dubai but no longer. You'll be be looking at north of US$150/night. However, all are well-tended and host to first class restaurants, pools, and other high-end hotel facilities.
Other luxury hotels include:
Abu Dhabi is a compulsive shopper's dream. There are several malls, most of which have the same stores as other malls. Besides establishments aimed at locals, malls also include popular English, American, and Canadian chain stores, as well as designer places. Many visitors will be surprised at the female fashion dichotomy - while local custom calls for women to be covered in public, most stores sell short skirts and halter tops alongside the more sedate floor-length skirts and high-necked shirts.
There are also millions of small, independent stores around the city. On the bottom floor of one building, a person can purchase fancy chocolates, computer parts, antiques, and clothing. It is better to purchase things like carpets, art, native jewelry, and antiques at the independent or souk-like places than at the malls, as the price will be lower and the shopkeepers more willing to haggle.
Bargaining is a big part of shopping in the Emirates, but be prudent. Don't bargain at Marks and Spencer or Hang Ten. Save your discounting skills for independent shops dealing in antiques and the like.
Shopping in most places can be frustrating, as the clerks will follow you around the store. This is partly due to their concept of what constitutes good service, and partly because there is a shoplifting problem. Most will not be intrusive, but some employees can be very pushy and overly obsequious. Smile and thank them often, and you're more likely to be left alone after a bit.
In carpet stores - or anywhere that sells tapestries, Indian antiques, and the like don't feel too pressured to buy, and don't be shocked if they start unrolling beautiful rug after beautiful rug at your feet. You are under no obligation to buy, no matter how much time they spend with you. However, the pressure will be very steady, and shyer shoppers may want to travel in packs for comfort's sake.
Grocery stores such as Spinney's, Carrefours, and the Abu Dhabi Cooperative Society are inexpensive and usually stocked with Western goods. Be careful to examine all produce before purchasing. Visitors wishing to purchase pork products will likely have to enter a separate room to do so, as no nationals are permitted in these sections of the grocery stores.
Prices in Abu Dhabi tend to be very competitive, and there is no tax.
General discount season - end of the year and midyear. These are the time where you can get some branded items with a very low price, maybe last season stock.
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