Borobudur
is an ancient Buddhist stupa and temple complex in central Java, Indonesia and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
There is no written record of who built Borobudur or why it was built. It was likely founded as a religious site in the 8th century at the peak of the Sailendra dynasty in central Java. The construction is thought to have taken a period of 75 years and completed in about 825 AD.
The confusion between Hindu and Buddhist dynasties and rulers in Java during this is a little baffling for visitors. Many Hindu and Buddhist monuments were constructed in the central Java region at this time. For example Borobudur and the nearby Hindu Prambanan temple compound were more or less contemporaneous. This, together with many records of royal marriages between Hindu and Buddhist nobles, has led academics to believe that there was little serious conflict concerning religion in central Java at this time. Such an assumption certainly helps the visitor understand the confusing archaeology of the region.
Borobudur lay abandoned and hidden for centuries under layers of volcanic ash and thick jungle growth. Nobody knows for sure why it was abandoned although the popular theory is that the local population just became disinterested when there were mass conversions to Islam in the 15th century. It was never forgotten entirely though with folklore ensuring that stories of the great monument lived on.
Following the Anglo-Dutch Java War, Java briefly was under British administration from 1811 to 1816. The British governor was Thomas Stamford Raffles (the founder of Singapore) and he took a great practical and academic interest in the history of the mystical island of Java. On a tour to Semarang in 1814, he was informed about a huge ‘lost’ monument deep in the jungles near Yogyakarta and he sent a Dutch engineer to. investigate. It took 2 months to clear the jungle and partially reveal the amazing monument but it was not until 1835 that the complex was unearthed in its magnificent entirety.
Appreciation and protection was surprisingly slow to develop though and Borobudur became the domain of unscrupulous souvenir hunters. Modern-day archaeologists speculate that this was due to the European obsession with Ancient Egypt at the time – Borobudor was just too remote and too far away to get the attention it undoubtedly deserved. There was even a Dutch proposal to dismantle the monument and scatter it piece by piece to museums around the world. Thankfully, sense prevailed and by the end of the 19th century the site was left largely intact and a minor five year restoration programme was undertaken in 1907.
In 1973, a major plan to restore Borobudur was created under the auspices of UNESCO. This huge project involved a complete overhaul of the monument between 1975 and 1982. The unsteady foundations were stabilized, everything was meticulously cleaned and a major drainage system installed. After the renovation was finished, UNESCO formally listed Borobudur as a World Heritage Site in 1991. Since then, the profile of Borobudur has increased enormously and it is now a major international tourist attraction. Its statues, reliefs and stupas have spawned millions of replicas which adorn properties worldwide.
As well as being the single most popular tourist attraction in modern day Indonesia, Borobudur has resumed its role as an important place of worship and pilgrimage for Indonesian Buddhists. Visitors should be understanding and respectful of this especially during major Buddhist holiday periods.
The 2006 Jogyakarta earthquake which badly damaged nearby Prambanan , left Borobudur unscathed.
The nearest larger airports are in Yogyakarta and Solo. Both are well connected domestically and it is possible, if a bit rushed, to visit Borobudur on a day trip from Bali or Jakarta .
Public buses to Borobudur from Yogyakarta are aimed mostly at Indonesian visitors and few tourists venture aboard. If you are adventurous though, buses from Jombor bus terminal in northern Yogyakarta or Giwangan bus terminal in central Yogyakarta take about 60 to 90 minutes depending on the change at Muntilan and cost Rp 25,000 one way.
Buses run regularly from Magelang to Borobudur via Muntilan and are widely advertised there. Journey time of about 1 hour.
Travel agents in Yogyakarta sell door-to-door minibus tour packages for around Rp 75,000, which is a good deal and a straightforward way to reach the monument.
Yogyakarta is about 40 minutes south of Borobudur by car. Most of the route is on a well-maintained (for Indonesia) four-lane (in many places) highway and there are frequent bus services (see above). A taxi from Yogyakarta to Borobudur costs around Rp 200,000.
The only practical means of getting around is on foot. A toy train of limited practical use shuttles around the temple and between museum and entrance gate for Rp 5,000 a throw.
Entry into Borobudur costs:
The site is open to the public from 6AM to 5PM. However, the Manohara Hotel (see Sleep) runs a daily Borobudur Sunrise Tour for an additional Rp 115,000 per person, which gets you a flashlight and a lift up to the temple gate at 4:30AM, in time to see the sunrise and explore for an hour and a half before the hordes arrive. This is well worth the money. Hiring a guide who can explain the reliefs well costs Rp 50,000. You should ask for a guide in the evening before going to tour in the morning.
Climbing the pyramid takes some effort, and the dark stone absorbs the sun's heat rapidly to make walking and climbing quite hot by early afternoon. If you have but modest stamina or heat tolerance, you should start as early in the day as possible, and take plenty of water with you.
Borobudur consists of a single stupendously large structure, which can be divided into layers as follows:
Between Yogyakarta and Magelang lies the volcanic Kedu Plain. This was clearly an important area in pre-10th century Javanese history as it contains a whole host of ruins (both Buddhist and Hindu) dating from the same era as Borobudur and easily reached from there. The most accessible of these together make an interesting use of the late part of the day on the way back to Yogyakarta after you have seen Borobudur.
The vast majority of visitors stay in Yogyakarta and a few in Magelang. It is though well worth spending the night at Borobudur as this will give you a chance the following morning to get to the temples before the crowds arrive. Indeed, if you really want to explore and understand this magnificent monument, overnighting in the immediate area is vital.
There are a number of losmen and basic hotels in the village of Borobudur just south of the park entrance. Owing to the site's popularity with tourists prices are, by Indonesian standards, somewhat inflated for what you get.
Persistent touts hassle tourists on the approaches to the temple but are usually kept away from the temple itself. Be firm and polite about your intentions and they will soon get the message. Be careful when you exit the temple as there are confusing signs pointing to exit gates which lead you through a maze of stalls.
If you do intend to buy some souvenirs here then make sure your bargaining skills at their best.
The telephone area code for Borobudur is the same as Yogyakarta - 0274
Bus route: take a Yogyakarta bus and get down at Jombor Terminal (90 min, Rp 15,000). From Jombor take TransJogya route 2B to Prambanan (45-60 min, Rp 3,000). It will require 3 bus changes- 2B from Jombor to Terminal Condong, 3B from Condong to Maguuro (Jl. Solo) and 1A/B from Maguuro to Prambanan .
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Burmesedays, Gunawan Kartapranata, Vikash Kumar, detty, Jani Patokallio, Jazz, Jhon Erickson Ginting, Seb Ruiz, Ann, Michelle Ong, Michele Ann Jenkins, Bulan and Niels Elgaard Larsen, Tatatabot, WindHorse, Nzpcmad and Vcxlor
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